We’ve come a long way, baby; once regulated to squeeze tubes of coconut-scented oil or white lotions, sunscreens are now being incorporated into virtually every type of skin care product on the market.  An influx of information on both the aesthetically and biologically damaging effects of ultraviolet ray exposure over the past decade has heralded a whole new generation in skin care.
But despite general knowledge of the damaging after effects of that much-coveted tan-ranging from fine lines and age spots to melanoma—there are still some pieces missing to the sun-protection puzzle.  New studios have uncovered new dangers, but also more innovative ways to combat them.
For example, much press has been given over the past decade on the importance of blocking UVB penetration into the skin.  It is only recently the UVA rays have been studied, and the findings are dire.  Although UVB rays are indeed damaging, they do not penetrate past the dermis, the outermost and most protective layer of the skin.  UVA exposure, however, causes cumulative damage, with results ranging from wrinkles and premature aging to skin cancer.  This is because UVA rays penetrate the dermis, the fibrous middle layer of skin comprised of collagen and connective tissue and containing blood vessels, sweat glands, nerves and lymph vessels.
Unfortunately, both PABA (para amino benzoic acid) and oxybenzone (benzophenone) have been found to cause allergic reactions in certain individuals.  The current migration in anti-sun and after-sun products therefore seems to be toward two well-known and long-used agents, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide.  These two ingredients, classified as inorganic (or physical) sunscreens, provide broad-spectrum sun protection, including both UVB and UVA protection.
Both are also generally non-irritating, making them ideal for baby-care products and skin products containing more sensitizing ingredients, such as alpha hydroxy acids.  Also currently growing in use is avobenzone, marketed under the name Parsol 1789, which has been FDA-approved for several years and, like zinc oxide, is non-irritating and provides greater UVA protection in addition to UVB protection.
 

A NEW APPROACH
As consumers become more savvy, their demands are increasing for products that do more.  Therefore, a dual approach of both prevention and repair is called for to meet the needs of the consumer who may have already experienced sun damage and who wishes to prevent such a problem from recurring.  A number of ingredients may be incorporated into the finished formula to speed the skin’s natural process of repair, including vitamin C, with its antioxidant/free radical scavenging properties, and botanicals such as aloe.
While it is desirable for a cosmeceutical to penetrate deeply into the skin, sunscreen should remain on the surface to provide a physical, uniform barrier against the sun’s effects.  Micro Matrix®, with its small molecule size, is a new type of delivery system that enables vitamins, botanicals and other repairative ingredients to penetrate to the lower layers of the skin, while the comparatively larger molecule size of SPF ingredients allow sunscreen to remain on the surface.  Though encapsulation of ingredients is an old technology, new strides have been made in this area with ever smaller particle sizes for more penetrating delivery of actives where they’re needed most.
Smaller particle size does have an application in sunscreen ingredients, however, Zinc is well-known for its past association with thick creams and white noses.  However, technological advances with high sheer and high pressure processing have enabled the production of smaller particle-size SPF ingredients, allowing for a less opaque end product.  This is aesthetically important for the body but of course, much more so for the face.  A less opaque ingredient has positive potential not only as a basic sunscreen, but also as it can be incorporated more easily into foundations, day creams and other multiple-benefit skin care products.
Another serious but only recently commercially addressed effect of UV radiation is oxidative damage.  Antioxidants have come into their own in recent years as research has revealed their ability to counter free radical damage.  Therefore, skin care products incorporating both SPF and antioxidants can produce a finished formula that packs a powerful punch in both repairing and regenerating the skin.  Vitamin C, a major antioxidant, acts as an anti-inflammatory and collagen-boosting ingredient.  It also encourages new cell growth at the lower skin levels, helping to regenerate photo-damaged skin.
Other effective antioxidants include vitamin E, beta carotene and green tea.  New technology has investigated the derivation of lycopene, a carotenoid from the beta-carotene family, from tomatoes.  Lycopene, popular as a nutritional supplement has proven to have tremendous free radical scavenging capabilities and therefore goes a long way toward regenerating the skin and producing a more youthful appearance as a topical ingredient.  Regener-8, which contains lycopene as well as a blend of vitamins, enzymes and nutrients, boosts the benefits of any skin/sun care product.  A line of Regener-8 containing sunscreen SKUs is currently under development.
 

EVERYBODY’S DOING IT
By now it is widely accepted that SPF should be used year-round, and that a minimum SPF of 15 is desirable for effectiveness.  Day creams have appeared en masse on the market and most major skin care brands are now offering, or will soon be offering, UV protection in daily wear for the face, though body protection is still just as important.
Of course, the best defense against the sun is to stay out, away from exposure entirely.  However, one of the signals of attractiveness is still a healthy glow.  For this reason, self-tanners have grown considerably in popularity in recent years.  Original self-tanning technology normally entailed a staining of the skin, giving it an orange appearance.  Today’s self-tanning ingredients offer a more natural and gradual look and can remain on the skin for as long as 3-5 days – or even longer (to even over ten to twelve days) with new tan extending technologies.
Last year, self-tanning products accounted for more than 29% of mass market sun care sales, according to industry publications, and that number seems to be growing.  DHA (dihydroxyacetone), which reacts with the skin’s melanin for a tan that is unique to the wearer, has been the self-tanning ingredient of choice; however, newer ingredients can boost the effect, further enhancing natural skin tones.  Other tanning crémes contain henna to help prevent streaking and can last up to seven days according to company executives. 
One potential drawback to the use of self-tanning products is consumer mindset: despite updated consumer education on going sunless, it can inadvertently be assumed by the wearer that he or she is protected simply because his/her skin is darker.  Claims made by self-tanning product manufacturers that DHA “reacts with skin’s melanin,” though true, can unfortunately lead the consumer to believe that the melanin’s sun-protective capabilities are also enhanced.  Therefore, sunless tanners with SPF may be suncare’s next wave.  The expense of incorporating both self-tanning ingredients and SPF, as well as the difficulty in formulating the product, has prohibited this combination from becoming widely used as yet.  However, more of these combination products have appeared in recent years and the trend will continue to increase dramatically states Robert Dowdell, Director of R & D for Clincal Results.
 

THE FUTURE OF SUN CARE
Anti-sun and anti-pollutant concerns have naturally made SPF a non-negotiable to many consumers.  Concerns about other skin insults, including smoking and both indoor and outdoor polutants, are drawing antioxidants and cosmeceuticals into the mix.  Therefore, it would seem that the future of skin care lies in combination systems that address all of these concerns.
Newer technologies are broadening the view not only for sun care but for skin care in general.  UV protection is a must-have for the majority of today’s consumers, but ingredient compatibility, broad-range protection and economy are all factors which must be juggled by skin care manufacturers in order to produce the best product possible.  Today’s consumer wants it all.  Sun care is only one portion of a complete skin care regimen, but as both an anti-aging and safety measure, it is being addressed more and more in an ever-widening range of products.  The future of sun care lies in the technologies of today, and in listening to the wants of the consumer who desires youth, attractiveness and health in one convenient package.