From Exposé Magazine

New Developments
in Suncare

By David Pollock

 

The sun’s visible rays provide us light to see by, while the sun’s infrared rays provide us warmth.  Despite the sun’s usefulness, it can be very dangerous.  Consumer awareness of the damaging effects of the sun’s ultra-violet radiation is quickly changing how consumers view sun care products they choose.  People are not going to give up enjoying a beautiful sunny day.  Instead, they demanding products that provide UVA and UVB protection, to help in the fight against sunburn (erythema), photo damage and photo-aging.
 
Types of Ultra Violet Rays:
• UVA (320-400 nm) Responsible for long term, cumulative effects, pigmentation, wrinkles, skin cancer. UVA rays penetrate to the dermis.

• UVB (290-320 nm) Produces severe damage.  UVB rays are responsible for pigmentation and sunburn. UVB rays do not penetrate the epidermis.

• UVC (200-290 nm) Extremely harmful rays, but are also absorbed by the o-zone layer in the atmosphere.
 

ORGANIC vs. INORGANIC
With so many products on the market, it is important to understand the differences in the types of sunscreens used.  There are two types of sunscreens: Organic, which work by absorbing specific wavelengths of the ultra-violet radiation, and Inorganic, commonly known as physical sunscreens, which work by scattering the ultra-violet radiation.
The most common are the organic (chemical) sunscreens, which have been the mainstay in suncare products for years.  The “organic” does not mean that they are naturally occurring, but rather that they are composed of relatively complex molecules, which are absorbed to some degree.  Each organic sunscreen absorbs such a narrow spectrum that several varieties often are combined for maximum protection against UVB and partial effectiveness in the UVA spectrum.  It is common for consumers to experience an allergic or adverse reaction to one or another type of organic sunscreen.  The most recognized organic sunscreen, which experienced a number of people found to be allergic to it, is “para amino benzoic acid” or PABA.  Today, most products are “PABA Free.”  Another “problem” sunscreen is Benzophenone (oxybenzone).
Inorganic or physical sunscreens are actually microscopic solid particles, which absorb and scatter UV rays.  The most common types of physical sunscreens are titanium dioxide (TiO2), zinc oxide and talc.  Inorganic sunscreens provide broadspectrum protection, ranging from the long UVA rays down through the UVB rays and into the UVC region.  Additionally, inorganic sunscreens are non-irritating, which is an important factor when selecting sunscreens for infants, children and for those using alpha or beta acids.

 
SIZE DOES MATTER
The mention of zinc oxide brings back the image of thick white paste once worn by some people on their noses.  Zinc oxide once was considered the best known sun block of its time, but certainly unacceptable for the average consumer because of its whitening properties.
The particle size and surface properties of the inorganic sunscreen determines its opacity.  New technology with high sheer and high pressure processing of the inorganic materials goes far beyond the conventional colloid mill process, resulting in smaller particle size and allowing physical sunscreens to be transparent.
Extremely small particle size means a major breakthrough for sunscreen manufacturers.  Now, physical sunscreens can transparent to visible light, be distributed on the skin more easily, plus reflect and scatter UV rays more effectively.  Manufacturers are able to produce broad spectrum formulations that protect more, without the whitening effect associated with old fashioned zinc products, and are overall aesthetically acceptable to the consumer—which was never before possible.
 

NEW INGREDIENTS
One of the newest ingredients to hit the suncare market is Parsol 1789, with the chemical name of avobenzone.  Approved by the in 1997, Parsol 1789 blocks long wavelength UVA rays.  When combined with other sunscreen ingredients that block shorter UVA and UVB rays, Parsol 17889 products provide the latest in broad spectrum protection.  Parsol 1789 is non-irritating.
Vitamin C is not new to the skin care industry.  For the past few years, we have witnessed many companies introducing products with Vitamin C, which is  a major anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory and collagen booster.  Specific forms of Vitamin C are the perfect adjunct to sun care products.  As an anti-oxidant, Vitamin C is essential in helping to protect the skin from the oxidative damage caused exposure to UV rays, plus as an anti-inflammatory aid for the reaction associated with UV exposure.  Look for more and more products with Vitamin C for use while enjoying the sun and after-sun lotions.
Additionally, many manufacturers are incorporating a variety of botanical extracts and essential oils including soothing aloe vera, chamomile, ylang ylang and ginseng tea tree oil and others.  These natural ingredients offer many various benefits ranging from aromatherapy to skin moisturizing and soothing properties.
 

CONCLUSION
When selecting a sunscreen, consumers concerned about protection should use a product with at least an SPF 15 and preferably 30 or higher.  Additionally important is the type of protection, preferably one that contains titanium dioxide, zinc oxide or Parsol 1789 to insure that the product indicates “Broad Spectrum” protection.