From Exposé Magazine Hair Care: Product Development Highlights By David Pollock

The proper skin care regimen will get you noticed when face to face, but the proper hair care system will get you noticed from across the room!
  Hairstyles are as unique as the individual.  The trend is towards hairstyles that are less than perfect and help express a person's individuality.  To help achieve these styles, consumers are looking for products that do more that just make you look good - they want products that are actually good for their hair.  Consumers are demanding products that:
• Improve and protect the health of the hair follicles
• Add volume
• Provide manageability
• Create texture
• Leave a natural, healthy shine
 
 Neutrogena launched a product to help protect the hair from damage caused by heat and blow-drying, while ThermaSilk and Pantene are making claims of heat-activated formulations.  New technology and new discoveries in natural extracts are bringing hair care products to an all-new level.
 
 
THE BASICS
   Immediately after washing the hair, the sebaceous gland naturally coats the hair follicle with sebum.  The oily substance, compounded with environmental elements, results in hair that needs cleansing.  The main objective of a shampoo is to cleanse the hair and scalp, removing excess oils and impurities.  Foaming is not necessarily required to cleanse the hair, yet it is important to indicate to the user that the shampoo is working and aid in the spreadability of the shampoo.
Shampoos and soaps typically use a combination of surfactants to create the proper cleansing and foaming effect.  On Monday, February 23rd, 1998, "CBS This Morning" raised the issue of potential hazards of diethanolamine (DEA), one of the commonly used ingredients in soaps and shampoos.  Consumers quickly began taking a closer look at the ingredient statements of their shampoos and bath gels.  As both the National Toxicology Program (NTP) and the Chemical Manufacturers Association (CMA) are currently studying DEA, manufacturers are not waiting.  Hair care companies are working to develop alternative formulations, avoiding cocamide DEA and other DEAs.
 
 
HEALTHY HAIR
   Vitamins, proteins, amino acids and botanical extracts are all being incorporated into shampoos, conditioners and styling aids to help improve overall health of the hair.  Savvy consumers are carefully studying the ingredient statements of their hair care products, looking for these types of additives.
As each ingredient serves a specific purpose or need, the most advanced breakthroughs have been with proteins and amino acids.  A new discovery in hydrolyzed wheat proteins has been demonstrated to repair hair through covalent linkage, while wheat amino acids have been shown to penetrate the hair shaft to provide moisturization, smoothness and shine.  Redken and other professional brands have already incorporated these newest natural ingredients into recently introduced products.
For volumizing and texturing, new and lighter pomades are the trend.  Professional stylists have found easy-to-use styling sticks a better type of delivery system for styling products.  This new style of packaging allows for product application directly to the hair.
"Typical styling aids use PVP/Polymers that can be brittle and leave a white, flaky residue," states European hair consultant Steve Aikins.  "Consumers are looking for products that are light and provide manageability."  In the professional market, Steve Aikins has been working with a revolutionary complex of proteins and amino acids, which nourish and volumize the hair with just a few concentrated drops - without any white residue or PVP/Polymers.  Steve Aikins states, "Baby boomers want products that help them look and feel their best.  They are looking for products that add volume to their hair, as well as stimulate their scalp to help promote new hair growth."
Consumers are looking for styling aids and volumizers, which provide good texture, flexibility, holding power in high humidity, plus variable levels of firmness.


STRAIGHT TALK
  Despite all the trends for volumizing, there are a large number of consumers on the opposite end of the spectrum, looking for straighter, smoother hair.  Temporary straightening regimens now include straightening balms and anti-frizz serums.  This segment includes a growing volume from the ethnic market.
A recent report states that African-Americans purchase 30% of all the hair care products sold in the U.S.  Hair care manufacturers are quickly recognizing the buying power of this group.  Overlooked for years, this segment will experience significant developments over the next year or two.


STOP THE LOSS
   Another fast growing category are scalp growth stimulators...products specifically designed for thinning hair, as baby boomers continue to age and their hair continues to thin.  Manufacturers are quickly introducing products that cleanse the scalp, improve circulation, revitalize the pores and improve appearance.
Ginseng, kola nut, rosemary, hoshu wu and other botanicals are being promoted as scalp stimulants, which improve circulation and promote hair growth.  As competition quickly increases, retailers must be careful to carry products that are efficacious.  Products must show some signs of working, or the consumer will become discouraged with the category as a whole.
New discoveries in the professional market quickly find their way into products available in the mass market.  The key is to understand the trends and keep an eye out for products that address the needs of today's consumers.