From Exposé Magazine

Beauty is Truly Skin Deep
Color Cosmetics That Deliver

By David Pollock
President, Clinical Results

 

Cosmetics have been used for millennia to highlight features, hide imperfections and enhance one’s overall appearance.  New developments take the cosmetic field to a whole new level.  Rather than simply acting as color enhancements or flaw cover-up, tomorrow’s cosmetics actually perform, according to industry professionals.  We are witnessing a merging of the color makeup world with the therapeutics of the cosmeceutical world.
The cosmetic industry is serious business.  Department store sales of cosmetics approached $7 billion by mid-2001, according to marketing estimates.  Makeup prices have risen considerably over the last decade, in turn, more is demanded of them by the women who wear them. 
Stepped-up research and development in this arena has uncovered and allowed manufacturers to implement new ingredients and technologies to make cosmetics last longer, smudge less, and look more natural. 
 

STAYING POWER 
One exciting advance in color cosmetics is in longer-lasting or “all day” items.  Extended-wear products, especially foundations, have become increasingly more popular for their convenience – reapplications are fewer – and economy due to the fact that less product is used during the day
Smudge-proof, extended-wear lipsticks that deliver on promises to stay on after eating or drinking have seen enormous popularity, since their introduction.  While some traditional type products relied on temporary staining ingredients for their extended wear claims, advancements have been made in “sealer” technology.  Instead of “sealing” the lips with a film over the surface of the lipstick, scientists have been able to combine the smudge-proof technology in to the actual lipstick for a one-step application – and without stinging or drying out the lips! 
Improved manufacturing processes and formulating technologies allow for smaller micron-sized spheres of the pigment, which can deliver more even and natural color application and coverage, though these are normally relegated to higher-end lipsticks.  These are an advance over previous years in which lipstick was primarily composed of pigments, castor oil and waxes.
Lip “plumping” technology is another dimension that appeals to a large portion of the population and can be incorporated into lipsticks or used alone as a cream or ointment.  Though the effects are typically temporary and the finished products tend to be more expensive, lipsticks that offer both color coverage and a plumping effect offer a dual benefit that may, in the consumer’s mind, outweigh the cost.
 

SKIN SENSE
Until recently, skin care, cosmeceuticals and color cosmetics have been separate categories, but advances are bringing them together in multifunctional or corrective cosmetics. 
The skin is the palette on which enhancing colors are applied, and it is usually the first part of the body that is addressed in an individual’s makeup routine.  Flawless skin has been coveted since time immemorial by women the world over.  This desired effect has normally been accomplished by two basic processes: visual (the hiding of flaws, such as acne, scarring or uneven tone), and tactile (a softer and/or firmer feel). 
Advances in the second half of the last century have added correction as a third possibility in skin care, with ingredients that can soften the appearance of or even, in some cases, correct the condition of fine lines and wrinkles, scarring and other imperfections. 
Many women desire skin products that work to correct (or at least temporarily diminish) physical flaws.  So far this has been confined primarily to skin preparations as a separate process from the application of makeup.  A variety of fine-line-reduction, firming and softening ingredients work to correct the appearance of, and in some cases reverse, dryness and the signs of aging.  However, these alone do not offer visual coverage the way foundations or concealing creams do. 
Conversely, preparations that conceal skin imperfections are available through a number of manufacturers, but these do nothing to change the flaws.  Many of today’s coverage products deliver advanced, natural-looking results and do not wash off with exposure to moisture, such as swimming or sweating, or when rubbed against clothing.  These benefits represent an advance over older cover-up products, which were often greasy and wiped-off easily.  But coverage is just that.  When the product is removed, the imperfections remain. 
Combining coverage with correction is the next step in cosmetics.  “Watch for an upcoming felt-tip ‘pen’ which masks the appearance of spider veins on the legs, but which will soon also help to remove them.  The new version of the pen will provide visual coverage of the flaw while gradually correcting the condition.  The spider vein eraser contains vitamin C and K and the company’s proprietary ingredient, Botanicell®, to reduce the appearance of the veins”, states Robert Dowdell, V.P. of New Technologies for Clinical Results.  He continues, “We are even working on a “pen” for under the eyes to instantly firm and remove dark circles.  While these technologies have not yet been licensed, we have had several inquiries and hope to see them in stores by summer.” 
While some products conceal, these new products are a step-up with products that combine concealment with long-term benefits.  Whether the product is applied with either a wand or a pen or from a tube, they have applications in lipsticks, spider vein coverage products and scar erasers.  These types of items are specifically designed to contain long-term benefits rather than merely visual enhancement or improvement. 
Such products satisfy both consumers’ need for immediate gratification with their desire for long-term benefits, according to industry professionals. 
 

A TRICK OF THE LIGHT
Other new cosmetics take advantage of either natural or indoor light with ingredients that interact as light reflective or deflective properties.  By reflecting the light away from the face, an illusion of softened or fewer lines can be created. 
Such cosmetics currently on the market have normally been relegated to foundations.  However, the idea has recently been extended to include blush or any cosmetic that covers a relatively large portion of the skin.  Several major marketers have begun incorporating light-reflective products into their lines.  According to their manufacturers, these products are becoming increasingly popular, especially among the baby boomer generation. 
Though simple light reflection does nothing to change the imperfections themselves, combination products are already on the shelves, containing vitamins, antioxidants and sunscreens for the much-coveted multiple effect. 
The possibilities for multipurpose cosmetics are virtually endless, though the cross-over into healing or age-reversing effects necessitates knowledgeable research and development and careful formulation.  Cosmetics aren’t just about marketing anymore.  They are, as the current trend dictates, about the complete woman and the many effects she desires from a single product.